Wednesday, March 22, 2017

Feyre

I could knit Feyre again.  And again.  It was that satisfying.  I was imitating the sample, knit in Brooklyn Tweed's Newsprint.  I think the Patons Classic Aran and Dark Grey Marl colorways gave mine a similarly graphic look.  True black would've been nicer, but I was on a budget.




This shape of this shawl is new to me.  It's longer than the normal crescent shawl, so it works like a scarf, too.  I can't wait for an opportunity to try it out.  Sadly, we didn't have a winter this year, and it's practically summer.  You can't tell, but I was dying from heat in these photos.  However, next winter, I will be ready!


Though I wanted to knit mine with two high contrast colors, I think adding more colors or toning down the contrast sounds interesting too.   Check out Katy's multicolored version.


Shannon is one of my favorite designers.  She designs things I could wear every single day, and the pattern books she's been making with Jane Richmond are beautiful.   But, you knew that.  Shannon also has a really great Ravelry group, with the best knit-alongs.  They are the KALs I can't live without.


Details:  I used size US 8 needles and 2 skeins of each colorway to knit this.  I also used season 1 of Baskets to fuel my knitting.  There's really nothing else to say about the knitting, except that it was bliss.


I had high hopes for going somewhere neat to take these photos, but the weather turned hot and I got a migraine, so my house it was.

What I love about this shawl is the contrast, the stripes of color and texture, and the interesting shape.    I love the border too.  I think this shawl would look great with my black maxi dress.


I knit this for the Grocery Girls' BFF Knit-along, for which we could knit any pattern by good friends Shannon Cook or Jane Richmond.  Guys, I have a list a mile long, and I've already knit a lot of their stuff.

I have plans for 4 more of Shannon's,  Timber being first on that list.  I also have plans to use some recycled super bulky wool for Jane's Entwine.

(more on my ravelry, kollabora, instagram, and flickr)

There's nothing these two have designed that I wouldn't love to knit.  I'm their secret BFF.

What have you guys knit by these BFFs?  And which of their patterns do you want to knit next?

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

Julia Sweater

I don't know what happened.  I slipped this big sweater over my head and next thing I knew it was like the last 26 years were a dream.  What?  I'm 17 again, wearing guys' sweaters with baggy... everything?

Friends, I knit the biggest, simplest, most monotonous seed stitch sweater ever and it is perfect!  I once thought I'd never knit oversized, drop shoulder sweaters.  Never say never.  At my heart, I am a product knitter.  And a tomboy.  Now I won't have to borrow any of my husband's sweaters if I want to wear something big and cozy.  I can just pull on my sweater-as-fountain of youth and feel like a girl again.  Minus the angst and melancholy about growing up.

My son asked if I meant to wear dad jeans for these photos.  Are dad jeans a thing?



This is the Julia Sweater from Wool and the Gang.  Remember how I was finally getting around to knitting one of their patterns?  Well, I did and I'm so pleased with it.

Don't let my declaration that the stitch pattern was monotonous come across as a put down.  It's not.  I mean, to a new knitter this would be fantastically interesting.  To me, it was a slog.  But a slog that took me through a season of Crazy Ex-Girlfriend, and the first season of Major Crimes (because I missed my Closer friends, even though it's not as good as The Closer.)

Sometimes you want a tv knit.  In my case, I wanted a lot of it.  After a while, I found a rhythm and the purling, every other stitch, wasn't so maddening.  And, boring as seed stitch is to an advanced knitter, it makes the best finished sweater!


There is a lot of seaming, but what else can you do when you knit a four piece sweater this big.  If I'd knit it in the recommended 100% cotton, think how heavy and twistable it would be.  Nah, this needed nice, sturdy seams.  That process was actually pretty easy.  I don't think I had to rip it back and start over once.  With no shaping, the pieces fit together really well.

Details:  I used size US 5 needles and Classic Elite Chesapeake yarn in the Faded Rose colorway.   That sounds like a country singer's stage name.  It is 50% wool, 50% organic cotton.  This made all of those little stitches more bearable to my hands than pure cotton would have.  It will also be more wearable, for me, without as much wool content as usual.  The yarn is discontinued, hence the super cheap price tag, but I really, really, enjoyed working with it.

So with all of this straightforward design, the only challenge for this knit was planning for after-wash growth.  I wanted just the right amount of "oversize," you know.  My gauge was off, but I can't remember by how much, and I've misplaced my printed pattern at the moment.  I think the pattern gauge was 14 sts/22 rows and mine, before blocking, was 16 sts/ 28 rows per 4 inches sq.  After blocking, it was 16 sts/ 24 rows.  I did stretch it for length when blocking, but I think I could have easily blocked it for more width, if I'd wanted to.  That's what I did with the sleeves, in fact.


I followed directions for a medium but my finished chest circumference was 42 inches, that of a size large, giving me about 7 or 8 inches of positive ease.  That's about the amount of ease the sample seems to have on the model.

I noticed lots of finished Julias on Ravelry were more fitted than the sample on WatG's site.  So I made a last minute decision to make mine larger than I'd originally planned, which led to a rousing game of Yarn  Chicken.  I ended up finishing the front and not being happy with the length.  I blocked that piece and got 2 more inches out of it, but would have preferred more.


So I decided to knit an extra couple of inches on the back, see how much yarn I had left, then come back to the front to add length if my yardage allowed.  I counted my additional rows so that after I ripped out the front neckline, I would be able to add exactly the same amount of length as I had on the back.

I then moved on to the sleeves.  I wanted a bit of "overhang" with those, too.  So after knitting them extra long, two-at-a-time, I blocked them for width and held them up to the sweater, to see if I had the length right.


This is when I placed markers on the sides of the body where each armhole should begin, so that I'd have plenty of room where sleeve and body joined.  Several knitters mentioned having trouble with tight armholes.  I was hoping that by blocking the sleeves for width and the body for length I would have plenty of room for a nice sized armhole.


I usually have to remind myself to not seam pieces too tightly, but when the pieces are pre-blocked I feel I have to be careful to not be too loose.  I don't know if the seaming yarn will grow a bit after washing and with the added weight of the pieces. It probably wasn't necessary, but I was mindful to keep my stitches from being slack.  

My finished measurements were 26" in length, 42" bust, and 14.5" around the arm at the sleeve/body seam.  That means I got 3" extra, in length, from blocking.  I'm wearing it with about 7" of ease.

Here's what I love about this sweater:  Seed stitch (once it's knitted)-duh,

The turned under edges of neck, cuffs, and bottom.  All of that turning and stitching was super tedious, but it gives this a professional look.  By professional, I mean better than the oversized crap they sell at PacSun, etc.


The way the neckline widens, when seamed under. 


Seed stitch with jeans.


My next knit from Wool and the Gang will probably be the Tommy Top or a beach bag- can't decide. There's also that Christmas gift I need to finish... 

Other posts on this sweater: planning and trucking along

Tuesday, March 7, 2017

So Much Seed Stitch, Then a Rant

How have I been knitting for 15+ years and still not yet knit a Wool and the Gang pattern?  Weird, huh?


So the Julia Sweater is my first one.  It's also been in my WIP basket for six months.  I realized this when I went on a recent cleaning frenzy.  I was told that in order to heal a back/hip sprain (that I think I got a year ago lifting heavy things in my backyard) I must drive very little and walk and stand a lot.  Oh, and I can clean house.  Thanks, Doc.  When I do go somewhere farther than 5 minutes away, it's with the shotgun seat cranked all the way back, gangster-style, and my husband or one of the kids chauffeuring. Yes, I am a diva now.

Anyway, I had started this sweater because of it's uncomplicated nature- oversized, drop shoulder, and seed stitch.  I thought it would be perfect for waiting rooms and dark movie theaters.  Simple and shapeless, it still looks great... at least when WatG styles it.  It's the kind of sweater you want to put on and leave on until either yourself or the sweater requires a hose-down.  I've since realized, however, that seed stitch stinks in a dark theater, so it went into the basket until about a week ago.


The pattern calls for Shiny Happy Cotton, labeled as a bulky yarn, but I'm using Classic Elite Chesapeake which is worsted.  Shiny Happy Cotton is rated as a Dk weight yarn on Ravelry, so mine has been a good substitute.  It's also only 50% organic cotton, then 50% wool.  I thought it would make it lighter, warmer, and keep it from sagging with wear.  (By the way, it's a discontinued yarn, but Webs still has other colors on super sale right now.)   I really like the way it feels to knit with.  It is easier to work with than pure cotton and it's a pretty color.  Pretty color is essential when you're making four million seed stitches.

This would have been an excellent sweater to knit as a new knitter, back when every stitch felt like a mini miracle.  I could've practice tension, knits, and purls, but not have to worry about difficult seaming or perfect sizing.  If only WatG existed when I was just starting out!   However, I would've found the cost of kits too high for my budget back then.  They do rotate their patterns for sale separately, though.  That's why I have several, without the kit yarn, just waiting in the queue.


When I think about Wool and the Gang, I can't help but think of all the companies and individuals that have borrowed their aesthetic, pattern ideas, packaging, etc.  I know I wrote a post up on We Are Knitters a while back, but I've come to feel uncomfortable using their patterns.  I did enjoy knitting  the kit I bought, and I will eventually blog about it, but I don't think I'll be buying more.

It's hard to know where to draw the line on flattering imitation and calculated replication.  So many designers and companies are all riding the same trend waves that it's inevitable that some will simply be slower to catch on.  That's just timing.  But, then there are times, like this when it's an obvious rip-off of a lesser known designer who will be unlikely to challenge it.  Makes me think of something I read years ago about Urban Outfitters.  To this day, I really don't like that company.  I'll admit I've bought some records there, though.

If you take a look at all of the similarities between We Are Knitters and Wool and the Gang's business concept, packaging, promotion, and advertising it can't be accidental and, even if it's a normal business practice, I personally don't like that kind of thing.

I remember reading a Flickr friend's thoughts on imitation in photography.  She said something like she thought if she made at least three significant changes to the concept, it was a case of inspiration, not imitation.  And, looking at her muse's photo next to her own, it seemed just that.  Not to mention, she wasn't selling her photo, just creating for the sake of making.  Her goal was self-discovery, not monetary gain.  I'm not sure why that has stuck in my head all these years, but I agree.  When I borrow I like to give credit, link up, hashtag, whatever.  I don't need to pretend I'm the source of all ideas.  This applies to articles I read and things I knit.  Really, is there anything more annoying than when someone makes a clever remark and the person standing next to them starts repeating it louder, over and over for attention?  Blah. Same principle, here.

I wrote up a pattern, years ago, and put it on Ravelry for free only because the Madewell cowl I borrowed the idea from was no longer for sale.  It was a total copy and I freely admitted it.  I would never have printed it if the original was still available to purchase.  I loved the experience of seeing something and trying to recreate it, and that was all.  That was totally a case of filling a pattern void, not pretending to be the designing OG.

Actually, I'm sure I could've looked at this sweater sample and knit a copy without purchasing, but why not give a few bucks as credit to the ones who made me think of it, especially when I'm going to be putting my FOs on my blog?  I really like supporting designers.  My appetite for patterns is too big for my available knitting time.

Having said that, I realize there are tons of sellers ripping each other off on Etsy all the time.  It would be difficult to keep track of it.  It's also difficult to notice how much of the barrage of images we see each day is settling into our subconscious to influence our creations.   But, when a larger company picks on the little guy, it really bugs me.  Must be my father's labor union influence.

So what's the test for innocent vs self-promoting imitation?  Will it steal customers?  Is it almost exactly a copy, or heavily modified?  Is it styled the same?  Does the product name or ad copy read the same?  Is it a pattern of behavior or a one-time coincidence?

(more on Ravelry, Kollabora, Instagram, and Flickr)

So, yeah, I'll stick with Wool and the Gang for knitting kits.  I do have kits for the Tommy Top, Milo and Piazza bags, and Shakti Shorts.  I can't wait for summer to knit these.

Have any of you knit Wool and the Gang patterns or want to?